Fixing Radon Problems | Protech Environmental

If testing shows a higher than acceptable level, there are numerous strategies for fixing a radon problem:

Passive Sealing

Theory: Find out where it is coming in. Block those pathways and it can’t come in any more.

Effectiveness: Dicey. Can be effective if there is a single, well defined source like a sump. Otherwise you wind up chasing the problem around.

Typical cost: $250

Soil Depressurization

Theory: Create a vacuum in the soil under the building, drawing off gases before they reach the envelope. Ideal is to draw through the perimeter “draintile” rather than trying to protect the entire footprint with one or two collection points.

Effectiveness: Active (fan-driven) systems are guaranteed. Homes with perimeter draintile and/or loose soil work best, and can usually be brought to below 2 pCi/l, approaching outdoor air. Passive stacks, which depend on warm air rising, are nice in theory, but not very effective.

Typical cost: $800

Reverse Flow

Theory: Create a bubble of fresh air in the soil under the building, pushing soil gas away instead of drawing it off. Hence the name.

Effectiveness: Unpredictable, can be very effective. Needs very loose soil and careful sealing (otherwise could make matters worse.

Typical cost: $700

Basement or Crawlspace Pressurization

Theory: If the basement is at a positive pressure relative to the soil, no air can leak in.

Effectiveness: Difficult to create and maintain adequate pressure in some homes.

Typical cost: $500

Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV)

Theory: Energy-efficient open window. Bring in plenty of fresh air, and the radon concentration will be reduced. Balance the system to provide slight pressurization.

Effectiveness: Not practical for reductions of more than about 50 percent.

Typical cost: $1,500

Visit the links on the left for additional detail and some examples.

Find qualified contractors and avoid being stung by a scam artist. Hint: Look for cute wording intended to make you think the company is experienced. Definitely don’t believe the yellow pages!

Have A Question About Radon Treatment?

Sarah Worsham a year ago

Super quick and efficient service of installing a radon mitigation system in the house we were selling. The installers were very knowledgeable and explained the system and the information to pass on to the buyer's. Definitely would recommend.

By regulation, radon fans must be located outside of the conditioned space of the home.

The regulation stipulates that the exhaust must extend above the roofline. The idea is to keep the exhaust gas from coming back into the house or impinging on patios, walkways, play areas, etc. There are three basic requirements: The exhaust must be

(a) at least ten feet off the ground,
(b) above the eave (not necessarily the edge) of the roof, and
(c) either ten feet away from, or two feet above, windows.

As long as the system is running, the air exiting the pipe keeps rain and bugs out. The system exhaust must be vertical, and upward. The rest of the system is designed so that it pitches back down toward the suction point, so that any water in the system drains back into the soil. Caps and other diverters can cause freeze-up problems from condensation when it’s cold out. Did you know: radon systems can expel hundreds of gallons of water vapor each year?

PVC piping is the most suitable material for the job. Metal downspouts are not intended to be used for gas exhaust applications, and the joints cannot be permanently sealed (they require frequent re-sealing). Downspouts also tend to ice up in the winter, disabling the system just when you need it the most.

Our standard sump covers are transparent, so you can shine a flash light into the sump pit to verify that the sump is working.